Kat van Duinen is a name with innovation and artistry in the world of fashion. With an insatiable curiosity for the industry and a clear vision of sustainability, she has become a trailblazer in the ever-evolving fashion landscape. In a recent interview, we had the privilege of delving into her world, discussing career inspirations, thoughts on sustainable fashion, unique design processes, cultural reflections, and her remarkable ability to stay ahead in the fast-paced fashion industry.
FR: What inspired you to become a fashion designer, and how has that inspiration evolved throughout your career
KVD: Being a designer, or rather, a dedicated problem solver, has been an intrinsic facet of my identity. It is a role that demands the gift of time and patience to grasp fully, as it unfolds as a unique journey of intertwining narratives. In this vocation, I find myself as both a conduit for others to ar;culate their stories and a storyteller in my own right, each creation a testament to my own narrative. Moreover, my profound ardour for the materials cultivated in the heart of South Africa, one overlooked and underappreciated within our borders, has served as a catalyst for decisive ac;on. It is a call to ac;on that resounds with a certain commitment, for me to champion the African luxury and to celebrate the remarkable talent it harbours.
FR: Fashion often reflects cultural and societal changes. Can you share a collection or design you've created that was inspired by a specific cultural or social movement, and what message you wanted to convey through it?
KVD: Each collection tells a story that is close to my heart, and in my recent endeavour, I embraced a bold departure from the conven;onal, choosing to initiate a dialogue centred around the various phases of "midlife crisis" and "identity crisis." These transi;onal junctures are familiar to women entering their for;es, where the boundaries of possibility are suddenly deemed off-limits. In this metamorphic period, men are often celebrated as eligible bachelors or silver foxes, while women are expected to fade into a subdued palette of beige and grey. Those who defy these expecta;ons are saddled with derogatory labels such as "Muttons dressed as Lambs” / "milf" / "Desperate Divorcees" / "Cougars."
In defiance of this unjust categorization, I resolved to dedicate the collection to these courageous women and, in doing so, to myself. I adamantly refuse to be boxed into a category I vehemently reject. The conversa;on that ensued was a compelling one, shedding light on the authentic experiences of women in this phase of life. Witnessing these women feeling acknowledged and empowered to continue embracing fashion and playfulness, regardless of societal expecta;ons, was indeed a very rewarding experience.
FR: Fashion designers often have unique creative processes. Could you describe your creative process, from the initial concept to the finished product, and any rituals or techniques that help you stay inspired?
KVD: My creative journey commences with a more generic vision. In my mind's eye, I try to capture the entry of a campaign photoshoot, choosing the perfect loca;on to serve as the backdrop for my explora;on. From this initial founda;on, I begin a process of creation. Inspiration, for me, is an omnipresent muse, capable of manifes;ng itself from the most unexpected corners of life. The realm of art, Africa, the evocative memories of my childhood, the sites present in my memory from my travels, the remarkable individuals who entrust me with their sartorial dreams – my clients, my own children, and friends – they all continue to infuse my creative wellspring with storytelling materials.
I am forever immersed in the sea of ideas, and concepts that yearn to be brought into existence.
FR: In the world of fashion, trends come and go; how do you balance the desire to create innovative, cutting-edge designs with the need to cater to timeless, classic styles that will always be in demand?
KVD: I steadfastly navigate away from flee;ng, transient trends, while I remain resolute in ensuring that the silhouettes I crave are both current and contemporary and can gracefully traverse the sands of ;me. When it comes to accessories, my fondness for frivolous and playful pieces remains unabated, yet I uphold the core tenets of timeless, minimalist, and contemporary design. These principles guide my approach, especially when contempla;ng exo;c leather materials, which often assume the role of investment pieces. I am acutely aware of the infinite modes of styling them, a versa;lity that enhances their enduring value and appeal.
FR: How do you feel about sustainable fashion?
KVD: I am constantly engaging in thought-provoking dialogues surrounding the expansive and multifaceted concept of sustainability. These conversations are imperative due to the pervasive existence of shortcuts and misconceptions within this important topic. The web of sustainability is intricate - and woven from threads that encompass topics such as longevity, biodegradability, the nurturing of employment opportunities, particularly in the venerable communities of rural Africa, skill development, the promotion of ethical farming practices, conservation initiatives, and the judicious utlisaton of indigenous materials... These are merely a few strands in the list. Perhaps, in the future, we could designate a separate, dedicated medalist to delve into the nuances of this compelling topic. I am ready to engage and share my insights on this matter.
Kat Van Duinen is a South African designer based in Cape Town, South Africa.
Follow her label on Instagram.
